This week it’s a spring floral scuba dress design and how I made it.
As always my first challenge was to figure out a design that would be suitable for this fabric. My scuba knit is thick, has a great amount of stretch and retention. I googled spring knit dresses, white bohemian dresses, spaghetti strap dresses and was not finding anything that I could relate to. I decided to wing it and drape it on my dress form on a Friday afternoon.
This fabric needed to be treated like swim wear and active wear because it was so stretchy. This means zig zag stitches, twin needles and almost a swim wear look. I also knew to keep it in proper proportion. It either needs to have to a little bit on the top or a little bit on the bottom. I bought 3 yards of 60” fabric. I decided to start with designing the shirt of the dress and have it a little bit on the top. I wanted it to have two slit vent openings on each side and gather it only in the middle front and middle back. For the bodice I wanted spaghetti straps, low back and a sweet heart neckline. It would have darts to give it form. This is my dress just pinned to the form.
To sew my dress I found the walking foot very valuable and for my straps I used a tool called tube turners to flip them right side out quickly.
This is my 5th time drafting my own darts. I marked dots on the inside of the fabric where I pinned the darts just on one side and then used a ruler and my tracing wheel and tracing paper to make them be the same on both sides.
Hemlines~ another great tip is to make a straight stitch with your top machine tension turned up just a bit where you want your hemline to fold in. Then simply flip, fold and top stitch with your twin needle.
I made a binding for the raw edges of the gown bodice and stitched it down with my top stitch needle.
Behind the scenes~
Mina bought my all natural viking dress made from my design and sent me pictures of herself in it. Doesn’t she look beautiful?
Fashion Show in Dayton!!
Thank you for reading!
Dream it, Sew it!!
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