I’ve never been a jeans person. When I started sewing I asked myself why everyone loves jeans? Personally, for me they dig in my crotch, feel uncomfortable and the style cuts go in and out faster than I can keep up with. Feeling a little left out I asked my Facebook friends why they love their jeans? I was surprised so many felt just like me. The people that did love jeans said 3 things; goes with everything, can dress up/dress down and you can do dirty jobs in them. I was not surprised no one said comfortable.
It was not the fashion we all had a problem with, but the fit. In researching the fit of modern jeans I found out that they have zero crotch ease. At this point I thought what if I could make a pair with more crotch ease and lower the circumference just a bit. I also learned I need to make a full button adjustment because my backside is so much larger than my front side.
In 2012 one of the first indie pattern companies we carried at Sew Dayton was Sew Liberated and I decided to make her Skinny Jean pattern.
What I love about this pattern is that the front pockets and the fly zip are fake. Yep, faux jeans! Only the back pockets are real! I need to make another pair of these in red scuba knit ASAP!
My first pair I stuck right to the pattern. Sadly the material didn’t have enough stretch and my underwear seemed to creep out the back because I didn’t have enough coverage. Each time I made a pair I learned something new. This also means that each pair is imperfect.
I have made these pants 7 times since then. I have learned so much about hacking a pants pattern. The amount of stretch in my fabric also makes a huge difference in the finished size. Each pair will be a science experiment in sizing. If your fabric has no stretch the pants will come out too small and you will not be able to get them over your waist. I learned this on Thanksgiving Day 2015. You can’t press stretch fabric that is all poly, one pair had a direct iron print on the leg that didn’t show up until a few washes later. And my last pair, if you move the waist line up 3″ the back pockets need to move up that same amount.
The last pair of pants I made out of thick black scuba knit. This time I decided to make them high wasted. This means I had to make them 3″ higher and make the waist band 5″ smaller.
Tip~ I cut the waist band the size it came in, tried the jeans on before sewing the band on and pinned the band all the way around finally cutting off the excess.
Here are a few other patterns I have made from Sew Liberated over the years. I know there are more, I just can’t find all the pictures.
Behind the scenes~
Last week I made a vintage nursing replica for a customer on etsy. She asked for modifications like set in pockets, fuller bottom of the skirt and thicker material. Projects like this always delight me.
Sign up for my Holiday Edition Embroidery class if you want to learn your basic stitches. All supplies are includes and all you can eat scones and tea.
I worked at Hancock Fabric for 8 years and as you know they all closed. We had a Hancock Employee Reunion dinner last week.
Thank you for reading.
Dream it, Sew it!
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