WARNING… This post won’t let you know what brand of dress form to purchase. Instead, I hope to show you options and maybe save you some hours of research and misinformation.

There are two ways to design clothing – flat pattern drafting and draping. Draping is the process of positioning and pinning the fabric on the dress form. Draping can be used to create garments by playing with fabric on a specific draping dress form. Similar to the tissue patterns you purchase, flat patterns are pattern pieces made in your actual size. I have made my own large set of flat-drafted patterns and I am looking for a draping dress form to combine these two types of design.

1. Why can’t I use one of the 7 adjustable, foam, or vintage forms I have already?

The standard adjustable forms were popular in the 1950s and sold as a companion to your big box patterns. They were to fit your garments on and help with hemming. They are not made for draping designs. The gaps down the center front, center back, and waistlines make it impossible to pin designs with a sense of draping.

The much less expensive foam forms are used for displaying completely finished garments. Think bridal stores. I love that I can push my pins straight in the form although sizing is problematic. I can use them for anything that is not fully fitted.

I viewed a video with a lady who owned five adjustable forms where you changed the sizing with a plastic key.  She recommended not purchasing this style, as all but two of the keys have broken. She says there is no way to adjust the form without the key. (I do not own any in this style and it is not pictured below.)

2. First, sizing. Am I petite or am I short?

My mom says there is a difference. I sorted through so many bad videos with misinformation before finally turning to a real book. This is why it is important to have a few reference books on hand.

My mom was right, you can be short, meaning you have ideal proportions but with shorter legs. Then, you would buy short pants. For petite, you will need the garment to be shorter in the waist rise and the straps will be shorter, too. Circumference does not matter! It is a common misconception that petite only means little or tiny person.

All the dress form sites have sizing charts. Some even have a calculator. But what if I am petite? How are my proportions different compared to what they call, the Norma Wolf? The Norma Wolf, the 1920s standard considered the “ideal” body shape was made up to begin with! It doesn’t exist! Can you hear my brain sizzling trying to sort out sizing perfection?

After posting my results, an accomplished sewing guru told me the true way to find out is to do a BWL. It is an acronym for back, waist, and length. Something new to learn. Here’s how it works – tie elastic around your waistline, measure from the nape of your neck down the length of your center back to where the tape measure hits the elastic. If you are 15.5″ or shorter you are petite. BOOM, someone finally made something easy! I could go down the rabbit hole of fit all day long.

The lesson, books are the best. Get yourself a good one!

 3. What is a Croque and how can making or studying one help?

A croque is a silhouette of your figure. Start by photographing your body with the bust, waist, and hips marked. This allows you to see how your body shape truly differs. It helped me get real with my shape and accept my personal fit from that of the dress forms. Think of this like a paper doll to try designs on to see if they look good before you make anything.

 4. Do videos from influencers help me decide which form to invest in?

Some videos did help me to see the advantages of each brand, a kind of compare and contrast, but not enough to recommend any. Many are unboxing videos of dress forms that popular influencers have gotten for free and they have yet to actually use them. This means their insight is limited at the time of filming. I’d make an unboxing video for my YouTube channel and be singing sunshine if a company sent me a form for free – and I’d use it, like, a lot.

 5. Do blog posts help?

Yes, I found blogs more helpful with my education than the videos. Most blogs create accurate and researched data. This is important when looking for professional information from someone with experience. Be aware some posts are written by influencers.

 6. Why a body scan form may not be worth it?

I discovered for my aging, changing female body that a scan would not be worth spending $3,000- $6,000. I’m changing too fast to get my dollars worth! One of the blogs I read showed how much her body changed over the years in the forms she had purchased. I was blown away. She suggested I study some books on fit and flat pattern drafting. On further inspection, I found she was teaching at one of the establishments that wrote the books she recommended.

 7. Randoms to consider?

~ Getting a form that is pinnable. This means I can stick pins directly into it.

~ Some dress forms come in petite. This will help with any short waist fit issues.

~ My understanding is that it is best to go with my bust size and then “pad up” the hips and bottoms. Padding up means taking padding and adding onto the widths and curves you need in the places you need them to match your build. Some companies will charge extra for the padding and some bundle it in with the form.

~ Having a crotch, leg, arm, neck, and head would be nice additions allowing you to design collars, hats, pants, and more.

~ Collapsible arms are also a plus. They will help to get side zip garments on it.

~ Some forms come in black with white stitching lines so you can see and feel through your muslin fabric. I find this to be helpful.

Bonus!

~ When you google, “draping dress forms” Amazon sponsors ads for pages and pages. You will not see all of the brands and your options.

~ Most sewists are honest and love to help other sewists. Asking in social groups is helpful to find quick and frank answers about brands, costs, advantages, and disadvantages.

~ Finding one used is a possible option. Finding my size form and a seller that ships it to you has been a challenge for me.

Here’s a linked list of a few of the recommended brands. I am not affiliated with any of these companies and have not used them.

Royal Dress Forms

The Shop Company

Wolf Forms

French European 

PGM

Alvaform

3D Scan Ditto Form

3D Scan Personal Fashion

3D Scan Beatrice Forms

You’re on your own from here folks!

Behind the scenes.

Here are a few draped garments I’ve designed with the forms I have. I’m positive with the appropriate tools I can level up my creations.

Thank you for reading,

Tracy McElfresh

Dream it! Sew it!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tracy McElfresh
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