Large print plaid matching, or any pattern matching, will certainly test your patience. I hope you’ll enjoy a few of my tips so this doesn’t happen to you. As you’ll read, I did some mindless things, and I know better. That’s what makes us human.

Fabric.

Matching uses a ton of fabric. Buy an extra yard. I failed to do this since this was one of my Spoonflower prints. Even squared plaids are much easier to match. Pull a thread to be sure your fabric is on grain and that the print is straight. If it isn’t on grain, you will never get it to match correctly. Prewash according to the care method and press it really well. Wrinkles will throw everything off.

Patterns.

Some garment styles just are not ideal for plaids. If you are using a pattern, it may say “Not Suitable for Plaids.” The fewer pieces, the easier it will be because you have fewer seams to match.

Cutting.

As I always say, once you cut, you commit. There is no going back. Decide on a dominant line to run down the center of your garment. Cut everything in a single layer. Do not cut on the fold. Start with the bodice. If it has bust darts, some areas naturally will not match at the side back. I chose to match below the darts. Cut the remaining bodice pieces using those same lines. I like to use one horizontal line near the hem as a consistent reference point.

Bonus.

One trick I love is making a template. Trace the plaid onto tracing paper, then trace and cut your pattern pieces. You can test your matching on paper before cutting into expensive fabric.

Sewing.

Take your time and pin carefully, even double pinning each match point. Even the slightest bit off will be noticeable. Some people like to use double pins to prevent shifting. You can also baste stitch seams to make sure there is no shifting. When inserting a zipper, trace horizontal lines across the zipper tape where each plaid line needs to meet. I did not do this, and mine is just slightly off.

Disclosure.

I’ve matched plenty of plaids. Some you win, and sometimes this happens. No one sees your mistakes the way you do. Most people will never notice a slightly off line. Matching plaids is one of the hardest sewing skills there is. The fact that you tried says more than a perfectly matched seam. The sewing police are not coming. Wear it proudly.

Behind the Scenes~ Matching wasn’t the hardest part of making this dress. I drafted my own pattern, fully lined it, even matching the lining print up.

You can find this print and many others I designed in my Spoonflower design studio.

Tracy McElfresh
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